To correctly fit a bit, it is crucial to know your horse's mouth and to start to understand that horses do not process 'naughty' but are in fact communicating with you their discomfort 9 times out of 10. Bits can hurt and badly fitting bits can hurt more so. Once you are armed with this information and logic, bitting your horse will become a very logical process because you will be able to work with your horse’s natural makeup to ensure his comfort which in turn will affect his willingness to obey your bit commands.

To help you bit your horse, look at the bars, are they thick, thin, flat or angular? This can affect the level of bit pressure your horse will be comfortable with. Is the tongue large, spilling out over the bars, filling all the available mouth space or slender or thick? A large tongue leaves little space for inappropriate bits, it can be easily pinched and can reduce bar pressure. Are the lips large, fleshy, small or delicate? This can affect how much pressure your bit will apply to the tongue and bars. Lastly look at the palate, how high is it? Is it flat, arched narrow or wide? This can affect the size of port that can be comfortably worn. Ports are great for giving horses tongue relief.

If things have gone wrong and you are dealing with resistance already: Nose in the air; tucked in behind the bit; not stopping; leaning etc, getting the fit and style right will make a dramatic difference to your horse and you. Take advice in what to select.

Once you know the mouth you are bitting, you can select an appropriate bit that works for your horse and rider. To fit it correctly, allow a tiny finger gap (approx 1/8") only either side of the lips. A bit that is too large can cause as many problems as those that are too small. Next get the height right. One wrinkle in the lips is all that should be visible. Finally, ensure the bit is the right way up, it is a common mistake.

For further information: Adele Jones, www.horsebitspecialist.com or 07866 986903.

International dressage rider Maria Eilberg answers.

It is essential to make sure that all tack is well fitted and used correctly. Bits not too wide, slipping from side to side in the horse's mouth, and not too narrow, pinching and causing discomfort (re bridoon/ curb bits, the bridoon should be a fraction narrower than the curb.) A firm noseband/cavasson will help to maintain a secure contact, and when using a double bridle make sure 90% of the contact is on the snaffle rein. You should only have a light connection with the curb rein and it is important to make sure that they are held evenly (not the left tighter than the right or vice versa.) If they are uneven this can easily result in tipping of the head.

The residual sludge from cold soaking hay is rightly, or wrongly, seen as a toxic pollutant by authority, not to be disposed into an eventual domestic water supply source however seemingly remote from one’s stables. Your horse may well thrive, or at least survive on it but so do reservoir algae. The micro-organisms in question are present as soil inhabitants and so on all grazed vegetation and in their harvested form in stored bales. If harvesting and storage conditions lead to unwanted water content and the associated overheating, then such ‘parasites’ will multiply and, in some situations, become obvious as moulds. In this country only a small number of such contaminants are dangerous to horses when eaten, most have no digestive or metabolic ill effect (broodmares may be an exception). Even a cocktail of them, nourished by cold water leaked sugars and other nutrients are no cause for concern, other than sludge disposal. Obviously moulded bales should not be used. However air pollution by eventually dried out moulds which along with other particulates such as dander become stable dust. This, by its nature, is readily inhaled from the air space especially that close to the feeding and then becomes a potential hazard. If there is a history of susceptibility to ‘heaves’ (Recurrent Airway Obstruction) in your horse(s) then all bales should be suspect. Steaming by proven techniques then becomes necessary. This method leaches hardly anything; there is no sludge. Not all horses are sensitised to this possibly allergic dust but in a stable population it is better to be safe than sorry and not individual selective. I’m sure your veterinary surgeon will have discussed other different or complementary husbandries which will be beneficial.

Equine behaviourist Jenni Nellist answers. It would be interesting to know what events originally started your pony's dislike of rugs. However as he's motivated to get rid of them he must find them quite unpleasant, even frightening. As this is the case, a thorough desensitisation programme is in order. Desensitisation involves gradually getting horses used to all aspects of the rugging process without provoking the flight/fight response, seen first as a raised head, rolling eyes, flared nostrils and tightened muscles.

When I desensitise horses to rugs, I start by rubbing them gently with folded, reasonably heavy material that doesn't flap or blow in a breeze easily. I gradually make the material larger by progressively opening it out - but only as long as the horse can remain relaxed. When I can do this, I start to lay the material over the horse's back - covering only the area of a saddle cloth to begin with. I'll move the horse around gently, and if he is tolerant of this I will reward him by rubbing his withers as this has a calming effect. I will also take the material off to give the horse a short break from what can be an uncomfortable exercise. I then repeat the exact same process.

Later I will open the material out more, and as long as the horse can relax about this, I will gradually cover the whole horse. I also get the horse used to ropes/straps around his legs and behind his thighs, some horse become fearful of rugs when leg straps get caught. The trick is to go slowly, taking at least several days so that the horse can learn to relax about the procedure - if you were afraid of spiders we'd begin by talking about them and I wouldn't have you hold a tarantula until you could calmly handle money spiders and garden spiders!

Mandy Howell from Individual Equine Cremations answers. You can be thrown into the situation of a sudden death and it can happen to any horse of any age, and although traumatic, it is often out of your control. You almost straight away have to make a decision of what to do next, and usually the options are Hunt Kennels, Horse Disposal Firm or Individual Cremation.

My overall advice is to decide now what you would want in the event of your horse’s death, and at least know who or where you can get a contact telephone number. Most people want the cheapest means of horse disposal, so find out what local options you have. On the day confirm a price beforehand and if you can remember, get a receipt with the name of the company and address, it shows that you disposed of your animal responsibly.

You may want your horse or pony individually cremated and have their ashes back to scatter, bury or keep somewhere special. There are businesses like ourselves who are set up specifically for individual equine cremations. There are also horse disposal businesses who can do individual equine cremations. It seems to me to be a waste of time paying £100 above the horse disposal price to get your horse's ashes back, and then wonder if they really are theirs! If you want an individual equine cremation you will have to pay a lot more for this specialist service, so ask questions and be sure you are getting what you pay, for example: How will my horse be collected - on its own, with others? Where is it going to be taken - how far away? (Beware of the companies who do not disclose a crematorium address.) When will it be cremated? How big is the cremator - will they only put one horse in a big cremator, how will they put it in a small one? How do they put the horse in the cremator? Can I have a look at the crematorium?

Anyone who cremates and returns the ashes has to have a Environment Agency license number, and a Carrier license number. Ask if they have these licenses, it is little comfort to find out they do not after they give you the bill. If you are unhappy about the service you receive those names and license numbers are the ones you quote to your Environment Agency or Trading Standards office, depending on the nature of your complaint.

If you want your horse or pony individually cremated check out what options are available, do your homework to your satisfaction, and then carry on enjoying your horse or pony, hopefully for many more years to come.

Individual Equine Cremation 01905 621356

David Heal from Heals Equine explains.

Good rubber mats will provide improved grip for your horse when rising and lying down. It will insulate against cold strike from concrete, dramatically reducing strain on tendons/joints and reduce the amount of bedding needed - the good news is this saves you money!

The DO'S and DON'TS when choosing mats

• DO - always choose solid genuine brand new moulded rubber
• DON'T - confuse solid with hard and uncomfortable think like a horse, consider the surface they naturally lie on
• DO - make sure the mats are carefully fitted preferably by a professional
• DON'T - choose porous/semi porous mats, fine if you like the smell of soaked up urine in the stable
• DO - use high absorbent bedding, this will keep the surface dry and fresh and reduce the need for washing the mats
• DON'T - use metal forks to muck out, plastic works well and will not damage the mat surface
• DO - check your chosen mat can be disinfected should it be needed, any good brand should be okay
• DON'T - always settle for the cheapest option, it may not be value for money and could end up costing you more
• DO - make sure the price quoted includes mat, delivery, fitting and V.A.T.
• DON'T - choose mats for other animals, make sure they are horse mats
• DO - make sure your mats come with a guarantee

Why Use Stable Mats?

• THERMALLY EFFICIENT - increases floor temperature
• PROTECTION FOR HOCKS/KNEES - Reduces risk of damage/capping
• ANTI SLIP - Cobbled surface increases safety as horses rise and lie down
• ECONOMICAL - Reduces amount of bedding needed
• AIDS RECOVERY - increases comfort for box rest
• PROVIDES 'GIVE' UNDERFOOT - reduces strain on tendons/joints
• HORSES REST WARMER - increases overnight body temperature
• LABOUR SAVING - reduces time spent mucking out
• PEACE OF MIND - our stable mats come with a ten year guarantee

For further information contact David Heal on 01543 253147